Let me tell you about my theory. Here's what's going on. My fuel gauge is not quite worthless, but it's close. At least it tells me when I better get to the pump. When it's full, the needle is buried to the right. It's not even visible. It will stay invisible for days. Then when it reads full, I figure I've got half a tank or less. A few more trips and the needle reads 3/4. At that point I've got very little fuel. If I get below half on the gauge, I'm walking. So, I think that gauge is simply clocked over to the right. Now the question - can I fix that, or do I need to get another? Anyone else ever experience a similar problem?
Any chance you've taken your sending unit out of the tank for an inspection? I may be wrong but I don't think it's going to be the gauge.
I was afraid of that. No, I haven't personally removed the sender, but I do know the tank was removed for reconditioning by a previous owner. What can I do about it? Do you think it's improperly installed? Bent? Should I just replace it?
I think you should carefully remove it. Try to do it without much movement just in case it's stuck or something.They are very easy to remove. The only problem is how much fuel you have in the tank at the time. One thing I try to do is jack the car up as high as possible on the left side to shift the fuel to the right. Just keeps you from having to drain it all if you have a lot. One day I'm gonna have a drain plug put in mine. Anyway, check the position and how freely it moves. You can also do a search. I think Dan Hines has a post giving the amount of resistance so you can test it with an ohm meter. Good luck with it and let us know how you come out.
Alright, sounds like I have a project. Hopefully this heat won't keep me away from it too long... Thanks!
Stop!!! Before you remove the tank I would replace the voltage regulator on the back of the gage cluster 20.00 bucks. I had the same problem my gage did the same thing. It's been fine for 2 years now. Autokrafters or NPD have them. Ken
Yes, it's very possible it could be the regulator but I wasn't advising him to remove the tank. Just to take out the sending unit for an inspection. Only takes a few minutes for an inspection and you don't have to order anything unless you know for sure you need it.
well if he needs a regulator im sure i gots a used one from an old cluster.... it wouldnt be new but it would be cheaper than $20
Even easier...disconnect the wiring harness from the sender. It's been awhile since I messed with a standard Maverick gauge, but doesn't it go to 'E' when harness is removed? If this is the case, if you remove the harness and the gauge is still reading ½, then you know there is something wrong at the cluster end. Even if I'm wrong, I am on the right track. There is a way to test the gauge this way. I think there is a yellow and black wire that you ground and the gauge is supposed to go to 'E' or 'F'. I'll see if I can find the procedure...
Ok...to clarify, you can test the gauge this way: Remove the harness from the sending unit at the tank Turn the key to 'run' Short the yellow wire in the sending harness to a good ground. If the gauge/cluster regulator is okay, the gauge should go to 'F'. If it does, you can be certain that the problem is in the sending unit. If it doesn't, you could still have sending unit problems, but you also have an issue in the cluster or gauge...fix that first and see what happens.
Oh, God I hope not... I can't see it ending well if it goes so wrong I've got to write about it. "Drew vs. the Fuel System, hilarity ensues!" There are only so many things that can go wrong with gasoline and none of them are funny. I do plan to go back to the junkyard soon though, so who knows? Good info here guys. So Ray, I don't have to drop the tank to get to the sender? Anybody know a way to check that voltage regulator? Does it have any other function besides the fuel gauge which would be showing symptoms of a problem?
Will do. And what if the needles goes way past "F" and buries itself on the right side like I suspect it will? Is that normal?
No, look under the car on the drivers side. You will see the fuel line going in and an electrical plug. Simply remove both of those (be careful for fuel). There is a retainer holding the unit in. Take a small hammer and screwdriver and you can tap the retainer out. It will turn counterclockwise to come out. Be careful of your 0-ring seal. You should be able to reuse it if it's not all dried up or damaged.
