Can someone tell me what the easiest way to remove the dash to get to the lights behind the speedometer is?
Well, you don't remove the dash for that. You just need to remove the instrument cluster. There is a Phillips screw in the top of each of the two clusters, and one screw in the right side, which is inside the ashtray opening. If you have a column shifter, you'll need to remove the plastic shift indicator from the top of the column (make sure you put something like a towel over the metal pointer, or you will scratch the center of the cluster assembly like I did. If you have a floor shift, this won't be an issue). After you pull the top of the cluster out, you must reach behind and remove the speedometer cable by squeezing the sides with your fingers & thumb. You will also need to remove the wire connector. Doing this will allow the cluster to be pulled out of the dash housing, which will enable you to change the light bulbs...
the easiest way to take off the dash pad is to take out the dash.....the pad is bolted onto the dash with cage nuts...but before you do that you should consider buying the dash cap that jc whitney carries a few of the guys here have them and have mentioned that they fit pretty well....they just snap on over top of the dash pad itself
I respectfully disagree. It is a hell of a lot more pain in the a$$ to remove the dash from the car. It's been 13 years since I replaced my dash pad, but there's 16 or 18 of those nuts underneath. You must remove the instrument cluster, and headlight switch in order to get your hands up in there (Hope you have small hands like me). Once you get all of those nuts off, the pad just lifts right off. When I installed the new pad, I deliberately left off one or two of the nuts on the left side (the hardest ones to get to) just in case I ever have to pull the pad off again in the future...
TL's right. Its easier to remove the pad instead of the dash. There are 9 nuts across the top and a small bolt, one on each side. If you have a factory AC car, you'll have to remove the ducting too. Removing the package tray or lower dash will make it easier. To make things easier, anytime I will be under a dash for awhile, I take the front seat out. Only 4 easy nuts for a bench, and 8 for buckets. This sure makes it more comfortable and only takes about 5 minuits. Unless you like being a contortionist.
This is just the thread I have been looking for thismorning. I am going to park my Maverick for a while after I replace the one of the heads on my 91 Grand Caravan. Then it will be open season on my Mav Meaning that I can rip it apart all I want and not have to worry about getting it put back together in time to drive it to work. So where exactly are the bolts to remove the seats located? Do you have to get under the car. The tracks in my car are frozen (won't slide back and forth) and I can't find the bolts that mount the track to the floor, but I am used to working on imports, not that there should be that big a difference in seat mounting. I also need to take the whole dash out because the heater box and all the duct work for it is shot. What all needs to be pulled to make this go as smoothly as possible?
To take out the seats you must remove the nuts on the bolts which stick through the floor. That means go under the car. As far as your ducting being trash, you can remove it from pulling it out the bottom of the dash. It would seem that removing the whole dash and then taking it out would be easier, but it isn't. To remove the dash you will most likely have to take out the windshield so you can get to the bolts that hold it in on top. Then you have to unhook all the wiring, steering column, tubes, other bolts, etc.. A real pain in the butt. I would suggest taking everything out by pulling it from under the dash - it can be done, and rather easily once you get the hang of it. Just my opinion. -Corbin
Thank you Corbin. I have a lot of experience pulling dashs from work but I have never done a Maverick. It seems like I always break some little piece of something the first attempt at pulling it. Working in a wrecking yard with about 600 imports ranging in year from 85 to 03 we almost always have dupes of the part I am trying to get at. I really don't want to break anything on my Maverick because I don't want to buy the replacements. So I come here to get advice before I start tearing into things. Again thanks Dave
I hear you there! If you are goinf to remove the dash, check out www.maverickcomet.com/TechArticles/RemoveDash/RemoveDash.asp Some good info on it there. Good luck. -Corbin
In didn't have to remove the A/C ducting as I was able to reach around it, and yes, I was a contortionist because I did not remove the seats...
sorry but i still have to disagree with you guys on the dash removal......all you have to do is drop the colum and unplug the harness from the firewall and the dash comes out all in one piece...i removed mine in about twenty minutes
when i find a "good" dash pad in the bone yard i take the dash loose to get it out. first thing i do is take the windshield out. they are bad anyway or i save them. the 72' dash i took loose i wanted to keep. it had the dash pad that is on my 73'. i was thinking it would be easy to get it all. wrong, it was a bear to get out and i took the windshield out first. my thoughts are that if it is working on the mav. / comet it is something you want to do so enjoy it. if it takes longer to do something than you wanted it to, you just had more fun than you thought you were going to have. before i start a project on my car, i go to the bone yard and take that part off of a car there and locate all the hidden bolts, screws and clips. most of the time the part is better than mine so i buy it. don't know why i went on and on about this dash thing. sorry...frank...:bananaman :bananaman
What about the dash caps at JC Whitney? Can someone tell me which is the best one to get? The Accu Form? or the CoverKing?
