Back to square one

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Halebopp, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Go with the 89 Marquis motor. It's a roller block. The 84 is a dud. No better than the 77 and 79 motors you were looking at. Only exception to that would be if any of these had a D8VE block. It would still be a flat tappet block, but will have much more iron (10-2 lbs more) and thicker cylinder walls.
     
  2. Halebopp

    Halebopp Member

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    yeah the 90 Stang motor was frozen up, these 2 motors are in the cars and I can hear them run , tonight, The guy is going to pull whichever one I wnat, he's running the cars for demo derby.

    Thanks Guys , I'll get the 89 and just get the motor definately wan tthe roller if it can be had for a decent price, Going tonight to check em out,
     
  3. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    89 grand marquis... isnt that a roller motor... grab that one for sure.. if it is a roller.. it will have alot more power than a standard 302
     
  4. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Yea, if you call a 150 hp rating more. ;) it IS a roller motor but has a sub .400 lift cam Duration figures are less than 250* The E6 heads don't help the HP figures either. Good core to start with though for a build up.
     
  5. 74merc

    74merc computer nerd

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    The heads are a far cry better than the 77-79 heads he was looking at.

    At least this engine will be 9:1 compression, rather than 8.5:1. 89 Marquis/Crown Vic were respectable drivers, definitely not a racer, but plenty more oomph than late 70s and early 80s. Flatter torque curve and more of it.
     
  6. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Hay Guyz, Do U Thank The 89 Is A Roller Moter? Lolz!1 Kthnxbye
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2008
  7. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Ummmmmmmmmmm No. The differences between the 77-78 heads and the E6's is 2 ccs chamber volume, plus the E6's chamber shrouds the crap out of the intake valves. Good for bottom end torque, but that's it. They run out of steam at 3 grand.
     
  8. Halebopp

    Halebopp Member

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    Wow lots of info.

    Well, I'm buying both of them!

    Both motors were in the cars and I heard them run,

    The one from the '84 has a throttle body injection the '89 has a multi point set up but you guys probably already knew that

    The 84 started right up and ran like silk, with just a trace of blue smoke on start up,

    The 89 started then died and he had to restart it and get it warmed up it seemed to have a slight ticking noise, but no smoke at all. I wanted the roller motor but since it may have issues I debated and debated, told him I was leaning towards 84 since it runs very well, and seems like the 89 has a faint ticking noise. He said what'll you give me for both, I said well I can't buy both because all I have to spend is $220 and I have to Rent a truck to haul it home.

    He says "well I could deliver them but I'd need $250 for both." I told him I really couldn't go any higher , just didn't have the extra, in the end he ended up agreeing to $220 for both motors, he'll pull them and deliver and plunk them down in my Garage,

    Here's my situation, What money I get to work on this project will trickle in $20 here $50 there now and then an extra Benjamin here and there.

    Ok that being said I am a complete novice at this , from pulling the old motor out to putting the new motor in?

    First thing on my agenda is to find out what I should do to prevent these motors from siezing up if they sit for awhile. Ideas?

    Ok I have an engine cradle which is not much more than a small floor dolly to be able to move the motor around in the garage and not be sitting on the floor.

    I figure my next purchase should be an engine stand.

    Now here's where I could use some guideance, am I wasting time and money to drop that 84 in the Comet , and get it driveable, then build up the roller? It sounds like the roller would be the one to build but it also sounds like I should buy different heads eventually.

    I'm thinking if in stages

    Stage 1 make my Comet v-8 powered by getting what I need to get that 84 motor up and running. Seems I could buy a Carb/ intake set up for the 84 motor, then bolt it on the roller later once it is built, For the roller I'd need the 50 ounce flexplate right? For the 84 is that a 28 ounce?

    Stage 2 start building the roller motor, That'll take awhile, how do I decide what parts to buy , this doesn't have to be a screamer, cost is my biggest concern.

    Stage 3 swap out the 84 for the built roller.

    I need detailed advise guys, how would you proceed? Which motor would you build? ( that one may be an obvious question,
    should I turn around and sell one fo them to fund the build?

    Thanks I, I woke up this morning and thought well, you jus tbought 2 motors... now what?
     
  9. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Pull the plugs and spray PB Blaster in each of the cylinders, roll the engine over a few revolutions. I have several engines sitting around and this is what I do to them every 6-8 months. As long as they are stored in a dry place, you really shouldn't have much of a problem with them locking up unless they are going to sit for an extreme amount of time (5-10 years). Of course, I've seen engines sit for a year and lock up, and then I've seen others that have been sitting for 30 years and still turn fine..

    Is there anything wrong with the engine currently in the car? I would just leave it be and build the '89 engine if not. The only way I would swap the '84 engine in is if there is something wrong with the engine already in the car and you just wanted to get it going for now.
     
  10. Halebopp

    Halebopp Member

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    The 6 has a valve noise, and the mechanic told me it has a crank or rod bearing going, but I don't have to drive it much I could drive it as long as I can with it that way, heck I have put over 100 miles on it that way already.
     
  11. Halebopp

    Halebopp Member

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    ooops that is 1000 miles,
     
  12. Halebopp

    Halebopp Member

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    Is this on the right track for a mild build ? For intake and carb for the 89 motor? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-CEDL002KD&autoview=sku

    Anyone got opinions on supplier with good prices, looks like I wouldn't have to change out the cam, should I look at different heads? which ones?

    I found a book at Barnes and Noble, "Rebuilding a Ford Small block" seems pretty comprehensive tells tools needed etc.
     
  13. 74merc

    74merc computer nerd

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    76 through 85ish is suppose to be 69cc heads with really weak exhaust ports. I know the 77-78 heads really suck something awefull, I've got a set I use to keep animals from crawling under my house (yes, I found a use for them) and the early 80s use the same basic head.

    I know the E6's are weak compared to E7's, and E7's and early 70s heads are pretty close, but the E6's can't be worse than the D6's (or whatever the casting #'s are) on the late 70's heads. The exhaust ports on those are just big enough to get my thumb stuck. Really bad stuff.

    added in edit: I think the 50oz imbalance started in 81. I know my 77-78 engine I have is 28oz imbalance, my 85 is 50oz. 84 should be 50 as well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2008
  14. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    (y)Just wanted to clarify the differences in these two heads. About the only thing in common they have is, both suck. :rofl2: And that's a new use to me for bad heads.:thumbs2: Other uses: boat anchors, wheel chocks, scrap drive fodder........................:rofl2:
     
  15. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    The right head to use depends entirely on what you are going to do with it. Putting heads that will allow a 350 cubic inch engine to get HP at 7500 RPM would be a total waste of time on a stock 302 that is turning 2-3000 daily with an ocassional 5000 RPM. The stock heads, with some clean up, are good for street application even with a mild or RV cam.
    Decide what you are going to use the car for and use the appropriate heads.
     

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