351 C Tubular Automotive Headers

Ya know, I almost forgot just how joyful it was putting these headers on back in the early 90's without shaving the towers back. It took me a total of 10 minutes and 2 band aids for all of the memories to return. I think I even remembered some choice words that I said back then and was more then happy to use them again. Another problem was the home made motor mounts that had to be unbolted in order to jack up one side of the engine at a time to get to the header bolts. It was like I had to take the pipes off to get to the mounts but had to take the mounts off to get to the pipes. I know that not notching is the easiest but do yourselves a favor and notch the towers. You'll thank youself later.

 

LOL

C is easy

go find your self a W and put headers on that (and dont use crites )

i used every word in the book and still have battle scars

 

Where to start LOL

 

LOLOL!! The photo sure speaks volumes, doesn't it?

 

Yeah, I had a set of those. They say you are supposed to use the early SBF engine stands/mounts for best fitment.
I also had a set of the Boss 302 version.
They are the same 10 pcs, but the tubes are larger.

You gotta shave those towers!
It's the only way to go, from my experience anyway.
I didn't shave the towers from hard headedness, but I know better now.

 

could you run motor plates with these headers?

 

Probably in the front.
A rear would probably not work.
I had a Lakewood bell and remember there were clearance issues.
A rear plate would have to pass right through there.

My question, knowing nothing about engine plate tech would be:
Can you get away with just a front plate?

I would think you could, because the tranny mount would be supporting the rear.

 

yeah i dont know this one, like you said i would think since the tranny mount is supporting the rest

 

2600 lb, 10.4 sec 1/4 mile car, 351w, an I just have the front plate with rubber mounted tranny mount. Just replaced oem c-4 bell. Small hairline cracks, not going to press it! Would still use for a street car but I just could not reuse for this!

Mid plate just would not (fit) work. After trimming I only had like 2 shoestring left for mounting. We all know that shoestrings are for throttle cables and not mid plates.

 

I intend to use a front engine plate only instead of the motor mounts. I looked today and really can't see room for the mid plate. Too close to the firewall plus I want to be able to set the engine back further than stock anyway. I've used a single front plate on circle track cars that I have built in the past with no problems. As far as trimming the towers goes, I'm going to completely remove them and the frame rails and build a complete front frame that will slip through the back seat foot wells and mate up with another rear frame assembly that will use a 4 link coil over set up. The front frame will use Mustang II parts with a tubular cross member and coil overs. To tie this all together 2 front cage hoops will go through the firewall and connect to an interior cage, then continue through the rear package shelf to connect with the rear frame. You might call all of this EXTREME frame connectors. I've bought front coil overs, a rear sump Canton oil pan and conventional Mustang headers for the Cleveland to start mocking this all up. I have a lot of teardown left before I can begin. :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman

 

hey im just getting ready to put a 408 in my 71 maverick whats the best header to used the will fit between the towers?
how big of tubes can a get also?

 

Make sure you show us progress picture's, it sounds cool!!!

 

I'm running a mid plate in my 72 stock fire wall with a 351w, so I can pull motor and leave trans/bellhousing. But I'm having headers built!!

 

I've been working on the 69.5 every weekend when the weather is not too cold. The garage just doesn't heat very well with a kerosene space heater. I haven't been able to do any of the heavy fab work yet due to not having my main power hooked up to the garage so I can't get any welding done. The car is still up on the roll over stands and that makes it a little easier to work on the body and undercarriage. Once I start to cut the front end off of it, I'll have to put it back on the ground on blocks. I have started bending my cage and have the main hoop in. I want to get my 4 link, coil over and Watts linkage crossmembers welded in while I still have the ability to flip the car over on it's side. Then get the subframe connectors welded in before I get the car back on blocks. In the mean time I'm working on just about everything else about 8 hours or so every week. This weekend I got my Mustang back up lights in the valance and finished up making my Bobcat tails operational including adding a bulb to the reflector lense plus deleting the original back up light and replacing it with a red lense so all 3 lights with work together. I should be welding by April and that should make for much better progress.

 

There have been limitless threads done on the 351w swap/header subject.
You would do well to run a search and be prepared to study a great deal of threads.

The biggest 'off the shelf' headers that I know of are the Crites 1.75" or Hooker 1.75". Not very big for a 408...
The Crites are supposed to be easier to fit than Hookers.

The only other swap headers have really small tubes at 1.5".


Edit:
I am assuming you mean a 408w...
There is a 408c, but it's not nearly as common, so I didn't think of it during my typing.

You really should specify when asking a question.

The C headers can be had with larger tubes.
Around 2" off the shelf for 4v heads.
Larger if you talk to the right people at Tubular.
They have a 2.25" Boss 302 version and I was told that they can make a Cleveland set that big if you want a more challenging installation.