Boy you hit the nail on the head! I have a B303 in my car and it sounds like a solid lifter engine.I always thought something was wrong with it.
Yea, that's the first hp roller I used. The looks on my kid's face and as well as his teenaged friends(as well as the reactions & comments), was priceless when I first fired it off in the shop, with open headers and soon as it was idling on it's own, stuff started shaking off the shelves along the wall. That really got em hooked.on this stuff.
Glad I revisited this thread...I was really thinking i was going to lose my lopy idle when I got the 5.0 roller, I have heard it is a firing order issue Hope my cam is weird enough to keep that sound. And that description of "radial aircraft" is a PERFECT description of how my old motor ran. Hope to have mine in and running by tonight, tomorrow at the latest. and will let you all know how it goes and will try to put up a sound clip, if I can
I've got a TFS stage1 cam in it and it is lopy but not as lopy as a high compression solid cam.It don't have the pop if you know what I mean.:evilsmile I have used the E and the B cam ,but the tfs made more power.I have never used the z cam. What I ment by smoother idle was lift for lift the roller will idle better
I always wondered what made that POP...I thought it was an effect of the methano/alcohol fuel and high compression, and not a side effect of the solid cam. Never really tried to figure out which ones popped and which didn't.
True, the casting quality should be better, we have computer control tools now days. As far as metal being the same is debatable. I’m no metallurgist, I’m just a country boy from Georgia. But what I have seen personally in my life is they make things cheaper each year. What ever happen to the magnesium added that made the 9 inch ‘N’ case to make it such a strong rear end? Could it be the cost factor? Same goes with what metals and alloys are mixed together to cast the new blocks in this "Do it the cheapest way" world we live in today.
i agree, the "N" or nodular case was very stong. they quit using good metal a long time ago. the price of scrap has gone up, so there is a lot of recycled stuff out there. as far as 302s and 5.0s i used to think that older was better but after a couple rebuild of each i see them as the same. that is as far as the blocks them selfs. i like the rollers for the fact of roller anything is more performance. but for the older cars you have to worrie about equalizer bar threads in the block, dipstick location, reverse water pumps, etc.
I am going to build a 347 stroker with an old 302 block. Thanks for all the replies. Before I buy the stroker kit is there anything else I need to know.
Yes make sure you get a kit for the correct deck height,the older engines 68 to 73 had a shorter deck height than the 74 to 84 which were taller to drop the compression.After 84 they went back to the short deck height.This also applies to 351 windsors,but the 351s' stayed with the taller deck after 84.
Easier to build a stroker out of it,Compression ratio will be down at least a point from the Ideal 9.5:1 on a street build,but.You can have it decked at a machine shop and get it down to a point where it is not a problem.Lots of guys will zero deck an engine anyhow when building a good performance engine.Zero decking brings the top of the piston up even with the block deck for better quench and more compression.Parts just seem to cost more for short deck stock blocks when you try to get stroker kits for em.Its not really a big problem but one to be aware of thats all.Good luck with your build.
what about the roller vs flat tappet A roller with the same specs as a flat tappet will produce more power. The roller ramps are far more aggressive so the valve is open longer at max lift. Remember the build in one of the mags using the AFR heads and stock EFI cam with 1.7RR made 400HP. That equates to about .470 lift with very conservative duration. In my opinion roller cams are/were a major advancement in technology and HP production.
Just mill the decks, the extra material is only .020 more. It's a non issue if milling, something you want to do anyway to be sure the decks are square & level.
