I've heard that they break but i've never used them, i just set the level till fuel starts coming out when i rock the car.
I set mine to seep at idle... timing I believe is 6 and the advance should work when the throttle is cracked open... The ignition question was looking for breakdowns in the electronics...coil wire (and plug wires), cap etc...
i'm going to double check every thing again, i'm waiting on a new belt right now, my alt belt ripped off at 6,000RPM [ame="http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/mav75/?action=view¤t=MavGood.flv"][ame=http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/mav75/?action=view¤t=MavGood.flv][/ame][/URL]
i just read the april issue of carcraft and i think it solved one of my problems "since this was an emissions-configured car, Kirschenbaum points out that there may be some off idle stumble problems associated with this carbs lean air/fuel ratio mixture settings" and i read this in fordmuscle.com "[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]In some cases, especially with big cams and low idle vacuum, you may find that you have to crank the idle speed way up, and the idle mixture screws don't seem to make a difference. The problem here is that as you increase idle speed, more of the transfer slot becomes exposed, and the carb begins to meter through the primary circuit, causing a excessively rich idle mixture." i think i have the fast idle set bad [/SIZE][/FONT]
That is dealing with big cams which I am almost positive you don't have. I listened to the video and it sounds to me like a missfire or a bad exhaust valve. The idle sounds ok... If you have a helper and a good working park brake, an insulated plug wire puller, you could test the ignition. Another idea is to stare at the engine in full darkness for a bit. Your eyes need to adjust to the darkness then you may or may not see a light show, car running of corse. If you see any sparkage then there is something to look at when you turn the lights back on.
Thanks gene i'm building a new engine anyways so i just want this one to stay together for a few months
6.5 power valve with 14" of vacuum.I would put at least a 9.5 in it.It may not be all of your problems but it will cause a stumble.
yeah i was thinking of putting in a 10.5 (the 6.5 was the one that came in the trick kit) i've heard so many people say you need half or minus two....then i hered this one strange guy that said you have to add your idle vac and WOT vac and devide by two.
First: You don't have enough base timing in the engine. Go to 10 degrees. Second: You say the car idles at 1000 rpm with 14" of vacuum. What does the car idle at when you step on the foot brake and put the transmission in gear? This is the reading you need in order to pick the correct power valve. To hell with all that adding idle values and dividing horsesh!t. Step on the brake and put it into gear. Take the reading. Whatever the reading is you need a power valve that is 1.5 pounds lower. If it reads 8 then you need a 6.5. Get it? Start with the timing. Six degrees won't cut it.
