I know that and you know that, but the guy with a torch or no drill won't care...and when they burn the one and only hole saw they bought cause they didn't know how to use it, back to the hack torch. :16suspect
All your post wasn't there when I posted the previous one. How about a dremel to clean it up?...Then plug it.
For some reason I had a double post and the first one wasn't complete, so I deleted it. The chisel left some big, ugly, not very round holes. I figure I can weld in washers with the correct size ID, using my grease gun fitting to align them.
I don't know if anyone has noted this...b u t that picture of the hacked shock tower doesn't even have greaseable fittings in the bushings, it's got the plugs!
Is it possible to do like the heavy equipment folks do and run metal tubes from the control arms to some place accessible and terminate them with zerk fittings? It would take some brass fitting to screw in to the a-arm bushings instead of a zerk fitting, some 1/8" tubing and a fitting and zerk, say, under the hood on a fender?
Kinda what was discused in post 5 (which includes a previous posting). Nothing could be hard plumbed as there is movement. I like the idea of using some rubber bushings, but have never seen one which is actually working in our cars.
One of the suspension companies (Moog?) has what they call Problem Solver bushings for our cars. Converts the control arms to rubber bushings like the GM cars. Supposedly once you install them you can't convert back to metal bushings without replacing the control arm.
I have the Moog kit ,have not installed it yet. As i am doing the Shelby drop, they fit better in the tower then the originals. I got this information off this site.
This must be what I saw I just thought it was a late model a arm. I can give you a good reason to change to this type. This has been a topic in the mustnag magazines. As your stock A arm rotates threw it's travel one side screws in and the other side screws out thus changing you caster. If both sides of your car hit a dip at the same time one arm moves forward and the other back. I'm sure it's not much but, your wheel alignment is changing as it moves.
I have the moog kit, need a big press to get them installed right, they wpie out the thread in the controll arm which is why you can't go back, but all summer, no noise, which is more than I can say about the old bushings which were greased weekly. I thought the moog kit would have been brought up sooner, I think there are others who have done it. My towers were butchered with an air chisle, I cleaned the holes round with a torch, made a few plates out of heavy flat stock and drilled holes for the zerks and welded them in before I went with the moog bushings