Need help, getting so tired of not understanding.

Is a tune up carb kit something for me? I really don´t get what´s in the box?

 

Starting to get the picture about "the last thing to check"...

 

If your car dies when it is cold when you step on the accelerator your choke is out of adjustment or the accelerator pump is not providing enough fuel.
The cranking problem is a separate issue. The noise you hear -
If it is a whining type of sound then you need to clean the terminals. They are probably coated with black, hard oxide that will have to be scraped of with a knife blade. Be sure to clean both the terminals and the battery posts. If the cable terminals are swaged or moulded on then the cables are probably ok if they are #4 AWG but if you have bolt on terminals then it is time to replace the cables.
If the connections have been bad for some time it might be wise to replace the solenoid because low voltage through the solenoid will cause the contacts to arc or weld. If they weld it will be noticable because the starter continues to run even after the key is turned off. Arcing is not as noticable but it will cause problems like "singing" and the ever-popular "CLICK" and nothing happens. That is because the contacts are either burned to the point that they aren't making contact or they have arced so much that they have a coating of Cupric Oxide and can't carry the current any more.
With a volt meter you can test all these components by doing a "voltage drop test". To test a wire, put the leads from the volt meter on each end of the cable and crank the engine. If the meter shows .5vdc or more the cable is bad. Put the test leads on each of the big lugs on the solenoid. Crank the engine and if it measures .5vdc or more then the solenoid is bad and should be replaced. To check a connection (like the battery connections) put one lead on the cable terminal and the other one on the post of the battery. Crank the engine - if you get a reading of .5vdc or more the connection is bad - it needs to be cleaned and tightened.
The short story is that a "voltage drop test" tests the circuit under a load and the results are definite. If you check for voltage drop and you get more than .5vdc then what ever you are testing is bad.

 

sounds to me like the battery as well for the initial issue.

carb issue sounds like maybe it is a fuel adjustment/choke issue

i notice you are in sweden.. what is the altitude? and air temperature up there? trying playing with the air/fuel adjustment... all cars are different, and all engines and carbs run differently..

we can tell you all day how to adjust it. but only you can adjust it for your environment.

good luck

 

actually it should stay running no matter what cable you disconnect, as alternator is grounded to the block

 

i dont think so, dont work on any vehicle i own, and i own 4 that run perfectly. guess im an anomily. oh well. any how, good luck trackin down the gremlins.

 

I would say a simple way is to track down the guy that owned the car before you and smack him....

a couple times..

i had similar electrical probs... ignition module and key switch... shorts would happen when driving and would cut off.

 

I´m really thinking about the smacking part... if I only could I would try to run over his foot or something...