V8 z-bar dimensions and angles please

Would someone who has a v8 clutch z-bar handy take a few minutes with a tape measure and a protractor and make some measurements please? Photos of the tape measure in place on the part works too.

I haven’t got $250 usd to buy a reproduction v8 z bar (nor do I think that is a fair price) and would quite happily build one.

I need the shaft (centerline or surface) to each connection point distances.

The angle between the connection points relative to the pivot centerline.

Pivot pipe length and connection points of arms.

Offest of upper arm.

There are enough photos on-line to build this, i just need some critical dimensions and the angle to fab the pieces.

Unless some kind soul out there will sell me one for about $40.

Maybe someone out there feels like doing an autocad drawing?

Is it necessary to separate the two halfs for any reason, or is that just the way ford built em?

Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome to the Maverick world on the www.

This is a very hard to find part. I don't think you will find anybody to sell you this for $40. Honestly....I also think you will not find a person to take all these measurements for you.

To make this part is more than just a bunch of measurements. The angles and pivots all effect how the clutch and rods engage and disengage, and have to be "dead on" accurate. I think you are aware of this, but going off pictures and measurements, without having the actual part yourself, will be nearly impossible.

My advice (from somebody who has been messing with these cars for 30+ years)....just buy the repop.

 

I purchased a manufactured one (see attachment) from member "Maverick Maniac" way back in 2009 that is much stronger than stock and works perfectly. Unfortunately, I don't know if he's still making them. And I agree with Craig in that I seriously doubt you'll find a stock one for that price considering the number of cars that came with manual transmissions versus automatics. There are tech articles on cable or hydraulic release mechanisms here on the site.

 

The V8 z bar was designed in 2 halves to aid in the installation, otherwise it would be next to impossible to install as one piece. By the time you factor in your all your time/effort into reverse engineering and fabricating a new one, you would be into it for more than the cost of reproduction.
Suggest placing an ad in the Wanted section for V8 z bar, you might be surprised (good or bad) as to what you can get one for! Also, you would need to locate, probably an even harder to find, engine side "pivot ball stud", the frame side pivot bracket, various linkage rods, release fork...............have you considered going hydraulic throw out bearing route? Good luck!
David

 

the pivot side is available quite reasonably from steve drake products as well as the engine pivot mount. all for about 40$, felts, clips, nylon parts.

When you think about it, the z bar is not complicated. There are really two connection points related to an axis. (4 if you count spring holes) Yes it is a three dimensional problem but the rest of the shape of the metal is irrelevant to the mechanical principles of operation except that it needs to clear whatever obstructions are in the way, be it headers, steering box, brake lines, steering column etc.

The critical points can easily be represented in polar coordinates.

If one considers the engine pivot side as z=0” and straight up as 0 degrees;

z is the distance from the engine pivot end of the round tube.

the curved clutch bar connection to the shaft would be about at z=1” @ 90 degrees.

the shift pedal bar to pivot connectionat z=2” @ 20 degrees

and the frame pivot at z=4”

then the clutch pivot connection could be defined at z=2”, 3” long @180 degrees.

the pedal rod connection point might be at z=3.5”, 6”@30 degrees. This means the distance from the pivot axis to the connection point is 6”. (Assuming 0 degrees is straight up looking away from the engine. )

Seeing as i have owned the same maverick now since 1981, 37 years, I too know these cars pretty well. I am not scared of fabricating the z bar from junk in my metal bin. If i knew the exact placement of the hole that needs to be made in the firewall for the rod, i could probably figure the rest out without dimensions. A bit chicken and egg there not knowing the length of the connecting bar.

I have considered a quadrant and cable style, master slave hydraulic, and the nicest solution, the over the shaft type circular hydraulic release arrangement.

The factory style z bar looks pretty favorable for ease of fabrication compared at least to the cable quadrant approach which requires a lot of fiddling under the dash. The hydraulic approach is expensive and requires fabrication and possibly firewall reinforcing.

Chances are the repop might need alteration to clear the header anyway.

It seems odd that in this day of cnc plasma cutting and water jet cutting, more people aren’t interested in alternative options rather than shelling out cash to soneone who has done the same.

If someone would loan me one, I would be happy to document it, return it, share the dimensions and even cad up the patterns to have the arms plasma cut.

How bout it? I am in Edmonton Canada, and would pay shipping both ways and commit to returning it.

 

I’d be willing to get the dimensions for you. Although l probably can’t get to it for a couple days. The bar I have is one piece and works fine with full length headers.

 

I am pretty sure Raymond still repops the Z-bar. It operates and fits just like a factory one.

 

There is or should be a knock out already on your firewall, just above the steering column for the clutch pedal rod rubber boot. You can drill out the center of the "dimple" to whatever hole size you like for your set up.......
David

 

Who needs cad drawings with Bob around here. Lol

Also why I enjoy this place with so many people willing to go out of their way for others who were once in the same shoes and needing help.

 

I was thinking the same thing!

 

I just used one from an early Mustang. Might've paid $50 or $60.

 

veddy intedesting. The width of the early stangs bar was similar enough to our cars that no additional mod's were required? No mod'd spacers or offsetting?

 

No mods required. Use the Mustangs pivot balls.

 

That is fan-freaking-tastic Bob.


Thank you.