74 maverick voltage loss at starter solenoid. please help!

That's the lead I'm getting the reading from.

 

Yep that's the one, post closest to starter connection...

The solenoid sends full battery voltage to coil while cranking, under load it may be 9.5v or less, will be approx same engine running as resistor wire is then supplying voltage... If that wire is disconnected, voltage at coil while cranking is only going to be approx 7.5 to 8v...

In a nutshell there is no problem, can stop searching for a solution.

 

That makes sense. Thanks much . I really appreciate all of the advice.

 

I wouldn't put too much faith into how one of those lights compares to the other in brightness. God only knows if they're the original bulbs and if they are, their age could skew their output (in brightness)

 

definitely. Not a good idea to use lights as gauges. A good d.v.o.m or set of sunpros handled. And I bet those in dash light are original. I will be swapping to gold l.e.d. soon

 

So the problem I've seen causing alternator light to be dim when subbing to a electronic regulator is imaginary??? Was the case on my Comet till I increased resistance across the bulb from 15 ohm to 485 ohms which increased brightness at least three fold(back to expected normal)... The late 70s & 80s models with factory electronic regulator ALL use 500 ohm in this position for a reason... As i mentioned in prev post my Fairlane has dim alt lamp issue(and has for at least 30-35 years)... With mechanical regulator brightness is fine(tried a iffy one probably 10 years ago, light was normal), with electronic regulator lamp is noticeably dimmer...

Still think its the bulb?????????

BTW I will say there are possibly some electronic regulators that function fine on original circuit, I'm yet to see one though... Would be specifically designed to operate with the 15 ohm in place vs 500 ohm...

 

Did I say that ? No. I said putting too much faith into the output by going off the brightness of the idiot light is not a good idea. Don't get your panties in a wad. In your case, the wrong bulb could have been responsible for the brightness(or dimness in this case) in the first place. I'm no electrical engineer (but I did sleep in my own bed last night) But Increasing the voltage to that bulb will probably always increase it's brightness. After 40 years, there's no telling what bulb is in that socket.

 

Very possible, BUT I know the one in my

Absolutely not so, I know EXACTLY what bulb is in my Fairlane and Comet as well, a #194(current draw .24A @ 14.4v), and yes both are probably original and burn normal with original type regulator installed... I did measure voltage on the Fairlane with the two different regulators and electronic was only 8v vs a full 12v on the mechanical...

I'm not a electronic engineer either, but serviced TV and other electronic equipment for almost 40 years until retiring.. Yes I do know a little about circuitry as applied to automotive applications...

 

Experience doesn't lie. I'm still gonna try that ohm wire. Not a big deal or rush. lol. it will b nice brighter tho

 

Well good for you that you took the time to pull the bulbs and checked to see what was there. My statement still stands as fact. If you don't know what's there, you cannot rely on the outcome you're getting. Then there's the 40 year old wiring to throw a monkey wrench into the equation.

 

You are both right, but the fighting solves nothing. The point of this thread Is to help. Not to isolate and abuse Each other. I sincerely appreciate both of ur suggestions and will do both. but c'mon. We're all here for the same reasons and on the same team. Let's debate with manners....