hello got some questions. at about 1/4 throttle the engine will start to die, and if I hold it there it will die. if I give it less gas or more gas it runs fine. I got the stock 2 barrel on there and will be swapping it for a 4 barrel one of these days. will this solve the problem, or does this sound like a different issue? there is a loud noise similar to a belt squealing that sound like it is near my clutch. I believe this is the throwout bearing and in the video I got here you can hear it. is that what it sounds like? when you replace that you also want to replace the pressure plate and clutch as a set right? the hole that the rod with the locknut is on for adjusting freeplay is worn smooth, it no longer has threads and the rod can just pull right out instead of unscrewing it. it seems to not be a problem, should I get a new one with threads or leave it? here's a video here thank you
Sounds like you need a new TO bearing. Make sure to replace the whole works while everything's split apart and be sure to reface the flywheel to make everything feel new and get you moneys worth out of the deal. Otherwise it will be similar to completely rebuilding a brake system only to leave the old glazed and heat fractured rotors in place because you thought they would be fine. It'll never be quite right and just won't last. That motor needs a tuneup pretty badly and even sounds like a dead cylinder on startup/low rpm. Valve guides and rings are also far enough gone to warrant a rebuild. Save yourself some time, money, and headaches by first doing a compression check. If it's at all livable and warrants further investment?.. then move onto the ignition problems that seem to be plaguing that little motor. Don't mean to sound harsh or rain on any parades here.. just tellin' cause you asked, is all.
thank you I had no idea about the possible dead cylinder, I will look into that! do you think the motor dying issue is carb related?
As a rule, yes, you do want to change the clutch/pressure plate as a unit, but there are times when it's not necessary as was the case with mine when I put the Toploader in last year. Flywheel was in good shape as was the Centerforce pressure plate. All I needed was a new clutch disc. Don't skimp on the clutch/pressure plate set. You get what you pay for. Even a Ford HD Cobra setup will not handle the torque of a late roller 302 out of a pickup/van on a 10.5" 157 tooth flywheel. Which is why I had the Centerforce set left over to use with the Toploader (from my 89 Ranger)
I got the zoom oem 11" clutch kit. everything in it. $125 on summit racing where can I find a clutch freeplay adjustment rod holder? the threaded piece that the adjustment rod with the locknuts screws into?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-MU7350-1 well dangit thank you. haven't even opened it yet maybe I can send it back. would 10 or 10 1/2 work better?
Does the squeal only occur when you push the clutch peddle down? "would 10 or 10 1/2 work better?" I believe dyent already answered your question in response #6. "That motor needs a tuneup pretty badly and even sounds like a dead cylinder on startup/low rpm. Valve guides and rings are also far enough gone to warrant a rebuild. Save yourself some time, money, and headaches by first doing a compression check. If it's at all livable and warrants further investment?.. then move onto the ignition problems that seem to be plaguing that little motor." groberts 101 in response #2 is right on with his statement. Get the tune-up done and you may find your dead spot is gone as-well-as having a lot more power. While you have the plugs out, do as groberts 101 suggests and perform a compression test with the throttle plate and choke secured at wide open position. BTW your video was very helpful by allowing us to see exactly how your Maverick is performing. Let us know how it turns out.
I believe you can find your clutch parts needed at Auto Krafters. Part 2 of the catalog. http://www.autokrafters.com/c-1146-comet-71-77.aspx
didn't even look at the video again but the other thing I failed to mention the first time is the likelihood of carb mis-adjustment. The accelerator pump is causing you to have a stumble on throttle "tip-in" and probably needs slight adjustment. Rebuild it if it's leaking at all.. major fire hazard.
Make sure of what flywheel you have now before ordering anything. The older 157 tooth wheels do not accept the later model 10.5 " pressure plates. The bolt patterns are different between the two pressure plates. If your old Pressure plate has three fingers the throwout bearing rides on, your flywheel (chances are) will not have the bolt pattern for a diaphragm pressure plate (10.5") There are flywheels that have both bolt patterns, these are newer parts, not the original part your car came with.
alright thanks for all the information everybody i'm going to take everything apart before I order a new one. the squeal is not affected by the clutch peddle it is there with the clutch depressed or not. the sound goes away at about 2500 rpm. in the video I was in neutral not on the clutch in the beginning and clutch engaged in first before that nasty burnout haha. the clutch pedal was shaking as I revved the motor. I had the gas pedal floored after I released the clutch, and it doesn't seem like its accelerating very fast which could indicate a dead cylinder. autokrafters has that part right on groberts 101 instead of rebuilding anything on that old carb I will get a edelbrock performer 500 carb, and performer dual plane intake. I think I noticed a slight gas leak the other day as well. looks like it will be about 680 bucks for the carb, intake and air cleaner.
"the squeal is not affected by the clutch peddle it is there with the clutch depressed or not. the sound goes away at about 2500 rpm." Doesn't sound like a throw out bearing issue to me. Pushing the clutch in and out should have an impact on that squeal if it is coming from the throw out bearing. Your clutch and throw out bearing probably need replacing but, I'm not sold on the squeal being caused by the bearing. You might want to do a little more research before tearing your drivetrain apart. I'd hate to have you remove the transmission and replace the clutch assembly only to find you still have that pesky squeal.
you could be right. it's pretty hard to locate that sound. it sounds like it coming from the clutch area but it is the loudest near a big exhaust leak. maybe it is something inside the motor? there is many exhaust leaks in that stock single pipe could that be the cause? i'll spend some more time checking out the source of that squeal
"groberts 101 instead of rebuilding anything on that old carb I will get a edelbrock performer 500 carb, and performer dual plane intake. I think I noticed a slight gas leak the other day as well. looks like it will be about 680 bucks for the carb, intake and air cleaner." Before you go tearing your intake and carburetor off, see if you can fix the fuel leak and correct your ignition problems i.e. dead cylinder. It is a lot better if you have a decent running engine before you introduce any additional changes. You could end up with a vacuum leak due to the intake carburetor exchange; then you would have a real mess to diagnose and correct. You should also get that engine running right before you tear into the driveline. I do not know what your intentions are with the car, however I would go with the Edelbrock RPM rather than the Performer. You should not have a hood clearance problem. If you do you can just run a drop bottom air cleaner. I have run both styles of intake. The RPM is much superior to the Performer.
