Little help please

OK, so we are just getting around to pulling the motor out today after some delays, what I would like if anyone can help with the proper steps in order to make it the easiest as possible, I can get it out but those with experience always have been through the trial and error and found the way with the least busted knuckles, cussing, etc.

FYI I have it down to the long block, all wiring is disconnected, fuel pump removed, it has hedman headers that dont look to me like they are going to be willing to come up through the shock towers along with the motor but am I wrong?

pics are as it stands at the moment, all input greatly appreciated.

 

You'll have to unbolt the headers, from the heads. Are you taking the engine out, with the transmission attached?

 

Question

Well I hadn't planned on pulling the trans with it, should I? I do plan on installing a 2500-3000 stall while motor is out but other than that the trans is a new trans (12k miles with a shift kit) and I have pulled the trans pan and peened the bolts holes and replaced gasket to stop the leak that seems everyone has on the C4, BTW peening those holes level then a small bead of RTV on the pan, then rubber gasket then small bead of RTV on top of gasket and put in place finger tight with a socket, let set 24 hours, come back and cinch them down just a bit...no more leak!

So what do you recommend?

P.S. cleaned pan and trans surface with Acetone prior to installing new gasket

 

I would pull the trans. Makes it a LOT easier in my opinion.

 

Ok

ok will pull it, thanks

 

In case you don't know. You might want to use some sort of plug on the tail shaft of the transmission. Here's what they look like. Not sure what size the C4 uses.. http://www.sears.com/lisle-1inch-2....SPM10951580916?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

 

I left my trans in place(fresh with less than 50 mi) and hood on, then had to install engine three times because of a converter issue, wasn't that big of deal...

Now my headers were a ass kicker but that's another story

 

Plastic and duct tape is cheaper.

 

Sure.. All i'm saying is he needs a plug of some sort. 7 qts of atf fluid is messy..

 

Holy crap

OK, the plug thing is duly noted, thank you! NOW, about these *^#* headers, how in the #*)# do you get these off/out, I have try working them out the bottom and it ain't happening, it appears the engine has to be lifted a bit and they come off as you lift the motor, say it ain't so!
So if this is the case then they have to be installed in reverse, putting them in/on as the motor is lowered? If this is the case I have a cutting torch for Mr. Shock Tower handy

 

Yes. The driver side will need to come out the bottom IF your taking it out. The vehicle will need to be raised quite a bit. I think about 2 ft.

 

ok

Yes but is it suppose to come out with the motor still on the motor mounts or does the engine have to be lifted a bit for it to clear?

And as for the passenger side, what of it, does it come out attached to motor or does it come out the bottom, as far as I can tell right now neither will come out the bottom however it "looks" like they both would clear the shock towers attached to motor, they hug very close to the motor?

 

In my car the driver's side header has to be the first to install and the last to come out, from the bottom. And yes, the engine needs to be raised.

 

That's with my current Hooker headers, with my old Blackjacks the passenger side could go in and out from the top.

 

Old Times

This is reminding me of the 1966 Ford Fairlane GT I had as a teen, it had headers and they where so close theY actually bumped the shock towers in one spot from the torque twist of the engine BUT they both came out with the motor fully attached, it was a 390 CU.